Aldehydes are compounds that are found naturally in different plants, flowers and citruses, but are also created synthetically.
They were developed for fragrances to replicate the bright and sparkling notes found in citrus zest and flowers.
There’s a bit of science behind it, but there are a number of different Aldehydes that range from herbal and green to citrusy to floral to waxy to peachy, and more.
In general, the most familiar Aldehyde notes create an aroma that is sparkly, slightly soapy, clean, metallic.
They add radiance and luminosity to fragrances, creating an essence like champagne bubbles or fresh linens, but can also balance and round out a fragrance composition. They can boost lighter notes, making them smell more vibrant or crisp, and can create a balance to richer notes, adding smoother qualities to rich and resinous essences.
In 1905, Armingeat released Reve d’Or, the first official fragrance to contain Aldehydes, but it was Chanel No.5 that popularized the note and, in essence, revolutionized the industry with it.
Though there are many Aldehydes, Ernest Breaux, the perfumer for Chanel No.5, used C10, C11 and C12.
“- Aldehyde C-10: Soapy, aldehydic character, contributing to a fresh and clean impression.
- Aldehyde C-11: Fatty, waxy, and slightly floral, adding a rich and creamy quality to perfumes.
- Aldehyde C-12: Known for its strong, waxy, and floral odor, often used to create a bold and impactful fragrance.”
This combination is predominantly the style of Aldehyde scents described when people talk about them.
“Aldehydes are like a splash of light, adding brilliance to the scent.” - Ernest Breaux.
I find that most fragrances that have a vibe of soap or powder, clean laundry, fresh air, bright Musk, and those classic, ‘old school’ scents with a bright, elegant, powdery, floral aroma will have some sort of Aldehyde in the composition.
Fragrances you can find at Parfumerie Nasreen with Aldehydes include Lanvin Arpege, Madame Rochas, Gres Cabochard, Yves Saint Laurent Kouros, Worth Je Reviens, The Harmonist Metal Flower, Bond No.9 Madison Soiree, Perris Monte Carlo Musk Extreme, Ormonde Jayne Nawab of Oudh Intensivo.
Scents from popular houses that include Alehydes are Byredo’s Alto Astral and Blanch Absolu, Born To Stand Out’s Naked Laundry, Maison Francis Kurkdjian 724, Maison Martin Margiela Lazy Sunday Morning, By Kilian Vodka On The Rocks and Le Labo’s Neroli 36.
Scents with an Aldehydic style include Amouage’s Dia Man and Woman and Gold Man and Woman, Lalique de Lalique, Parfums de Marly Athalia, Jean Charles Brosseau Omber Rose and Paco Rabanne Calandre.
So if you’re looking for a scent that has a soft, luminous, slightly soapy/powdery, slightly citrusy style, Aldehydes might be the next thing to be on the look out for.