Once upon a time, real animal notes were used in fragrances. These notes are usually found in the base of the fragrance, adding warmth, depth, and sensuality, and helping to improve longevity.
In most cases, regulations have been put in place to protect the animals that are the sources of these notes, making them illegal to use in any form, and synthetic versions have been created to mimic the aromas.
The most commonly known of these animal notes is Ambergris. Ambergris is, essentially, vomit produced by the Sperm Whale. The regurgitation floats around the ocean, sometimes for close to a decade, soaking up the essence of the ocean and baking in the sun, eventually washing ashore. Amber notes can smell slightly beachy, but are usually warm and sweet, oftentimes paired with Iris or Vanilla. Synthetic versions of Ambergris are known as Ambroxan, Ambroxide, and Ambrox.
Musk has been, and still is, a popular ingredient in fragrances. It comes from the male Musk Deer, native to Russian and Asia. A gland under the abdomen secretes a strong smelling aroma that helps the deer to mark its territory, and plays a role in the mating process. The aroma of Musk is warm and subtle, adding a range of to fragrances that can be powdery, woodsy, and/or earthy. Common names for Synthetic Musk are known as White Musk, Musk Mallow, and Muscone.
Civet comes from the Civet Cat, native to Asia and Africa. Civet that has been used in fragrance is a glandular secretion that comes from both the male and female of the species. It can smell fecal and animal-like, or sensual, warm, and exotic, depending on the nose. Most synthetic Civet is called Civetone.
Castoreum is a fatty oil that comes from something called a Castor Sac, from the anal glands of matured Beavers and Platypuses. In nature, it is usually used to mark territory. It can smell resinous, leathery, and/or smoky. The synthetic version is simply known as Synthetic Castoreum.
One not-so-perilous animal note used in perfumery is Honey or Beeswax. Honey notes tend to add a subtle sweet to fragrances that can be candy-ish or slightly creamy.
Another not-so-perilous animal note is Milk. You may see it listed as Milk, Milky Accord, or Milk Accord. When used in fragrances, it can add a creamy, smooth, sweet, and/or comforting quality. It can be created synthetically as well, like a Chantilly Cream Accord(Amouage Love Tuberose & Parfums de Marly Oriana) or a Caffee Latte Accord(Lalique Soleil), but non-animal Milk can also be used, such as Fig Milk, Almond Milk, Coconut Milk, etc.
Some notes have an ‘Animalic Accord’ which is a synthetic aroma created to mimic any one of these elements.
At Parfumerie Nasreen, there are an array of fragrances that use the synthetic versions of Ambergris, Musk, Civet, and Castoreum.
Ambergris: Giardino Benessere Amber, Nishane Ambra Calabria, Perris Monte Carlo Ambre Gris, Electimuss London Amber Aquilaria, and many more.
Musk: Initio Parfums Prives Musk Therapy, Perris Monte Carlo Musk Extreme, Nishane Vain & Naive, The Harmonist Metal Flower, and many more.
Civet: Jean Desprez Bal A Versailles, Paloma Picasso, Amouage Gold Man and Woman, Houbigant Quelques Fleurs L’Original, and more.
Castoreum: Initio Parfums Prives Absolute Aphrodisiac, Amouage Epic Man and Opus XIII Silver Oud, BDK Parfums Oud Abramad, Royal Crown My Oud, and more.
You can find all these and more at Parfumerie Nasreen in Seattle and online at parfumerienasreen.com.
We’d love to hear your thoughts and help with any questions you may have.
