Oakmoss(Evernia Prunastri) is a plant in the Lichen family that grows on the bark of trees, primarily Oak, throughout the Northern hemisphere.
Oakmoss has been used throughout history for different reasons across the world. Its antiseptic properties are likely why the ancient Egyptians used it during the mummification process, and would have been an added bonus during the 16th century in Europe, where it was blended with Orris Root and Rose Petals to prepare powder for the infamous wigs that were popular at the time.
It has been cultivated primarily for the fragrance industry, but was banned in recent years due to its concern for apparent skin irritation.
Like with many other fragrance notes with limited use, perfumers have found ways to mimic the aroma of Oakmoss.
Oakmoss has an aroma with many nuances. The most familiar scent it evokes is damp forest and undergrowth, but can be generally earthy, woody, warmly sweet and honey-like with hay-like undertones, and can also create a Musky quality.
Tree Moss is another Mossy-esque scent that comes from Oakmoss grown on Conifer trees, creating a more turpentine aroma.
It has often been used in perfumery as a fixative, giving fragrances more substance, depth, and longevity.
It is primarily used in Chypre fragrances for Women, but is also popular in the Barbershop style found in Men’s fragrances.
Coty’s Le Chypre was released in 1917 and popularized the aroma, a fragrance trend that has lasted to this day.
Oakmoss Accords can be found in many fragrances today, simply adding a touch of earthiness to a scent, or as the shining star of the composition.
Evernia from Ormonde Jayne is primarily Oakmoss. Bergamot and spices brighten the gentle sharpness of the Oakmoss, while Iso-E-Super adds a smooth Amber vibe to the composition.
Fougere Royale from Houbigant has that classic Barbershop cleanness with a gentle earthy aroma. Oakmoss blends with the traditional Fougere notes of Bergamot, Lavender, spices, Sage, and Tonka Bean.
Hacivat from Nishane is bright, sweet and earthy with the sweetness of Pineapple boosted with bright citruses, and a melange of woods deepening the earthy qualities of the Oakmoss.
Mitsouko from Guerlain is a classic Chypre scent that has stood the test of time. Released just a couple of years after Coty’s Le Chypre, in 1919, Oakmoss shines in the heart of this scent alongside Spices, Rose, Patchouli and Peach.
Pheromone from Marilyn Miglin is warm and sensual. Bergamot, Orange, and Jasmine add a sultry brightness as Leafy Greens, Geranium, and Oakmoss create an ever-so-slightly sharp, earthy, warmth. A hint of Iris smooths out the naturally creamy quality of Sandalwood that rounds out this intriguing scent.
Just as Oakmoss has an endless touch in the world of perfumery, so too are the choices of Oakmoss fragrances.
You can find all these, and more, at Parfumerie Nasreen in Seattle!
