Iso E Super is a synthetic molecule that is used fairly commonly in the world of fragrance.
Iso E Super is said to be almost non-existent on its own, but can be woody, Ambery, powdery, and/or velvety when blended in fragrances. It gives a gentle velvety quality, boosting the warmer essences in a scent and improving longevity.
While this ingredient can go by many other names…..Isocyclemon E, Amberfleur, Orbitone, Anthamber, Patchouli Ethanone, Ambralux…..only the the International Flavours and Fragrances(IFF) can label their product as Iso E Super.
According to the IFF, Iso E Super is “smooth, woody, amber with unique aspects giving a ‘velvet’ like sensation. Used to impart fullness and subtle strength to fragrances. Superb floralizer found in the majority of newer fine fragrance.”
Just as MSG gives food a fuller flavor experience, so does Iso E Super for fragrances.
The molecule was discovered in 1973, then called Isocyclemone E, and was later improved and refined and called Iso E Super.
Halston Woman, released in 1975, is said to be the first fragrance released with Iso E Super.
In 1988, Dior Fahrenheit was released, creating a breakthrough for Iso E Super as a main ingredient. It is considered one of the first fragrances to have an Iso E Super “overdose”, using 25%.
This encouraged perfumers to experiment with the ingredient, and it can now be found in everything from high-end designer brands to niche perfume houses.
Iso E Super was further popularized, and pushed out into public knowledge, with the release of Escentric Molecules. These fragrances blend different amounts of Iso E Super with minimal other ingredients, 01 being 100% Iso E Super.
Today, you are likely to find Iso E Super in many fragrances with woody, Leathery, Ambery essences, and may even be in fragrances that you might not expect.
A few fragrances with Iso E Super that you can find at Parfumerie Nasreen are Montabaco from Ormonde Jayne, Herod from Parfums de Marly, and Perles and Encre Noire from Lalique.